piątek, 24 marca 2017

Whiter shade of pale

Dear Readers,

You probably know by know that my Husband took all the photos :)

  some time ago I bought 2 remnant pieces of beautiful grosgrains: an apple green rayon and a creamy-white cotton one (found on http://aksamitny.com.pl/). I never worked with grosgrain except for the ribbons and I was surprised to find how delicate, soft and drapey it is. The rayon grosgrain has more body and is a bit firmer; the cotton is light and smooth; both have a wonderful, subtle sheen to them, which catches the light beautifully. The only problem is that thay fray like crazy: be sure to leave a considerable seam allowances and to properly secure them if sewing with grosgrain fabrics (I used a dense zig-zag stitch).

 Hades the cat is convinced he has hidden himself well


I used the Simplicity 8049 reproduction pattern. I was attracted to the three-armhole dress idea (which was invented by Vionnet and used as early as in th 1920s) and I liked the purity of its lines.

The construction was pretty straightforward; surprisingly enough, the front is cut on straight grain so the "cowl" had to be forced into the fabric somehow - it wouldn't collapse by itself like it should when cut on the bias; Simplicity did this using pleats. I decided to line the whole dress using my favourite Superior lining from Truro fabrics; this cleaned up the mess inside and helped to give the dress a little bit more body and less transparency. The lining pieces were created using main pattern pieces, I hand-stitched them in place all around the facings, the side seam and the hem.

I made some personal touches to the project: I added a lining cover to the snaps (they help to keep the wrap-around part in place), arranged the bow in a more sharped-line manner and made a separate belt, which fastens with 3 hooks-and eyes and a snap.

I was afraid that this kind of dress would look bad on a full busted figure but surprisingly it gives a light, fresh feeling, especially when it's unbelted. I consider sewing it up again, this time using some heavy jersey or crêpe .What do you think about it?

sobota, 11 marca 2017

The anatomy of the rose

Dear Readers,

we all know that people who sew have a strange urge to see the insides of the garments. Who am I to subdue it? So without further ado, here is the left side of the grey roses dress:

The lingerie guards...

...and closed

Finishing of the bodice

  Satin bias binding covering the armhole, center back and waist seam allowances; cream grosgrain                        waist-stay; bodice cotton lining; lingerie guard; skirt lining; lapped zipper

                    Hook and eye at the top of the lapped zipper (well, only a hook pictured here)

More details of the waist seam allowance finishing; the waist stay, which fastens with 2 hooks & eyes

Pick stitching and hemming

                                                  To keep the contrast bands in place

                                                            To sew in the zipper

                                              Sleeve hem, slip stitched to the cotton lining

                                                        The hem - from the right side...

    ...and the left side. You can see that wherever it was possible I used the selvedge as the finish  

                In other places I used the blanket stitch to secure the skirt seam allowances; Both the                                 main fabric hem and the lining hem were made using hand rolled hem

The long seams of the lining were made with quite wide french seams

Thank you for reading! Have a wonderful weekend.