tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52492850435371126952024-03-19T12:02:12.157+01:00"All I want is the best of everything and there’s very little of that left." rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-32645141631202631562018-08-19T15:18:00.000+02:002018-08-19T15:20:01.794+02:00In black and white // Jak czarno na białymDear Readers,<br />
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it seems that half of the sewing blogosphere is occupied with making the #113 dress from the July issue of Burda magazine. No wonder; the dress has a 1960s-inspired, light and summery silhouette, it also gives many possibilities of fabric choice and mixing. I especially love the interesting neckline detail. I decided to sew it as a part of a private sew-along with the talented <a href="https://weramade.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Wera</a> (her version is beautiful and for now you've got to take my word for it ;) ). I decided to sew it up in a boldly printed black and white cotton sateen, along with black piping (but only on seam lines I wanted to emphasize) and white cotton batiste bodice lining (put in by hand). I understitched the facings and for fastening I chose the lapped zipper (matching the thread colour with the black and white fabric pattern) plus a hook-and-eye. The dress is hemmed by hand and all the seam allowances are pinked. I made my usual adjustments (FBA, shortening of the back, overall elongating); aside from these I had no problem with the dress whatsoever. Without further ado, here it is:<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>zdaje się, że połowa krawieckiej blogosfery zajęła się szyciem modelu 113 z lipcowej Burdy. Nic dziwnego; sukienka ma lekką, wakacyjną linię w stylu lat 60, daje też wiele możliwości doboru i mieszania materiałów. Najciekawszym detalem sukienki jest nietypowy dekolt.</i><br />
<i>Sukienka powstała jako część sew-along z <a href="https://weramade.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Werą</a> (jej wersja jest piękna, ale póki co musicie mi uwierzyć na słowo:) ). Sukienkę uszyłam z czarno-białej bawełnianej satyny w wyrazisty wzór. Dodałam też czarną wypustkę(ale jedynie na liniach szwów, które chciałam wyeksponować) a podszewkę górnej części sukienki wykonałam z białego batystu (została wszyta ręcznie). Zrobiłam understitch (polski odpowiednik?) na odszyciach, a na zapięcie wybrałam zamek pod zakładką (dopasowując kolory nici i wzór materiału) i haftkę. Sukienka jest podszyta ręcznie, a wszystkie zapasy szwów są przycięte w zygzak.</i><br />
<i>Wykonałam moje standardowe poprawki na wykroju (FBA, skrócenie linii pleców, wydłużenie sukienki); poza nimi nie miałam żadnych problemów z tym modelem. Więc bez zbędnej zwłoki, rvdzik prezentuje:</i><br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-83049951613234953792018-06-15T14:59:00.003+02:002018-06-15T15:03:35.709+02:00Sunny-side upDear Readers,<br />
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I've sewn quite a few garments since my last post, but somehow they all ended up looking dowdy on me,...So to cheer things up, I went for a Burda mini skirt pattern combined with a yolk-colored cotton pique.<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy, </i><br />
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<i>od czasu ostatniego wpisu uszyłam całkiem sporo rzeczy, ale w pewien magiczny sposób wszystkie sprawiają, że wyglądam jak matrona...Więc dla rozweselenia na stół krawiecki trafiła mini z Burdy plus bawełniana pika w kolorze żółtka.</i><br />
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I got the fabric about 2 years ago as a small remnant - not enough for a dress, too stiff for a shirt, but nonetheless too beautiful to be laying in the fabric stash. The pattern comes from Burda Style 8/2012, #135. I wanted to do something simple and relaxing, so I skipped the muslin part and went on with fitting as I was sewing. The pattern itself is well drafted, simple, true to size yet charming, with a slight a-line and a pocket detail. I didn't have to make any big alterations, I only lengthened it by 1,5 in and slightly redrafted the pocket flap.<br />
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<i>Materiał kupiłam około 2 lat temu, była to resztka z belki - za mało na sukienkę, za sztywny na koszulę, ale wciąż zbyt piękny, by chować się w materiałowej szafie. Wykrój zaś to numer 135 z Burdy 8/2012. Miałam ochotę na coś prostego i przyjemnego, więc nie szyłam próbki wykroju; zamiast tego mierzyłam i korygowałam w miarę tworzenia. Wykrój okazał się dobrze rozrysowany, prosty, zgodny z rozmiarówką i bardzo uroczy ze swoją linią w literę A oraz ciekawymi kieszeniami. Nie musiałam wprowadzać żadnych specjalnych zmian, jedynie wydłużyłam spódnicę (o 4 cm) i nieco zmieniłam klapki przy kieszeniach.</i><br />
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The fabric was a dream to work with (I adore pique - why there's so little of it in fabric stores?). Look at the detail photos - it has tiny polka dots woven into it. Lovely!<br />
I top stitched all the seam allowances as the cotton wasn't fraying too much; the hem was finished by hand to make it invisible from the fabric's right side. The facing was understitched and catchstitched to the seam allowances.<br />
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<i>Praca z tym materiałem to marzenie (uwielbiam pikę - czemu tak rzadko pojawia się w sklepach?). Spójrzcie na zdjęcia detali - materiał ma wyszyte groszki. Cudownie!</i><br />
<i>Ostębnowałam wszystkie zapasy szwów (bawełna jest gęsto tkana), podłożenie dołu wykonałam ręcznie, by było niewidoczne z prawej strony materiału. Odszycie podszyłam do jego zapasu szwów( by ładnie się układało do wnętrza spódnicy), po czym przyszyłam je dodatkowo do zapasów szwów na bokach.</i><br />
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I haven't worn skirt that short for many years, but I love this one so much it's not very hard to get used to. I think I'll make it in many more colors, but for now - enjoy the photos!<br />
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<i>Już wiele lat nie nosiłam niczego w takiej długości, ale nową spódniczkę polubiłam na tyle, że ciężko mi się od niej odzwyczaić. Planuję ją uszyć w kilku kolorach, ale póki co - miłego oglądania zdjęć obecnej wersji!</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl21Cne97CmzyGvG7IZNVRlD9XU2jgoc2HU0qROlO9gTHZCvCjnWymRrSMAYfqIf119Wy0rMYH1aUMM6pTJ7hFlorht-2FhbZ44LqCg3ZzqxxY5Ab30MQ4nHcXUSpcbI5c9R_1kwB4PEA/s1600/6r.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl21Cne97CmzyGvG7IZNVRlD9XU2jgoc2HU0qROlO9gTHZCvCjnWymRrSMAYfqIf119Wy0rMYH1aUMM6pTJ7hFlorht-2FhbZ44LqCg3ZzqxxY5Ab30MQ4nHcXUSpcbI5c9R_1kwB4PEA/s320/6r.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-3095724800858555712018-04-01T16:46:00.003+02:002018-04-01T17:32:32.022+02:00There's no place like home // Wszędzie dobrze, ale w domu najlepiejDear Readers,<br />
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I have to apologize for such a long silence. Hopefully I'll be back to blogging on a regular basis; today I want to show you my newly made housecoat. It's a type of garment that fell out of favour in modern world; it's a real pity, as more and more women tend to dress frumpy in the intimacy of their homes. Before you send me into a blog oblivion for voicing such an opinion, let me state one thing. I understand the need for comfort, I really do-but do yourself a favour and on a day off try putting on satin lounging pyjamas instead of sweatpants and observe how much better you feel about yourself. In his "Little Dictionary of Fashion" Dior stressed the importance of feminine house wear on the morale and there's little to add to such a truthful opinion. I feel that we should dress up <i>especially</i> at home, because it's the place we share with the loved ones, which are far more important than random people on the street.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjou_3Q-YmFcI1W_kLRIZZRqSiYEXqSA757W5x_SJkQ3RRu_O_UItextPw9nyMPM7ZSHYie_nlrua26KssACqBEVGsgZgWohBnQ6QC76qgK1REoUDzYP1oL49MSW2S4333kbqR_5e8CJkY/s1600/blogr1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjou_3Q-YmFcI1W_kLRIZZRqSiYEXqSA757W5x_SJkQ3RRu_O_UItextPw9nyMPM7ZSHYie_nlrua26KssACqBEVGsgZgWohBnQ6QC76qgK1REoUDzYP1oL49MSW2S4333kbqR_5e8CJkY/s320/blogr1.JPG" width="224" /></a></div>
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
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<i>muszę przeprosić Was za tak długą blogociszę. Mam nadzieję, ze uda mi się powrócić na stałe i regularne wpisy.</i><br />
<i>Dziś chciałam zaprezentować Wam mój nowy housecoat (czy ktoś zna dobry polski odpowiednik tego słowa? Nie jest to-o zgrozo-podomka, nie jest to szlafrok...); ten element garderoby w dzisiejszym świecie wypadł już z obiegu. Szkoda, że coraz więcej kobiet ma tendencję do niechlujnego ubioru w zaciszu domowego ogniska; zanim za tę opinię powiesicie na mnie psy, a blog wyrzucicie z zakładek, pozwólcie mi powiedzieć jedną rzecz. Rozumiem potrzebę komfortu, naprawdę rozumiem, ale mam pewną propozycję-zróbcie sobie przysługę i w wolny dzień zarzućcie na siebie satynowe lounging pyjamas(znów brak polskiego odpowiednika!) zamiast dresów i zobaczcie, o ile Wam lepiej ze sobą. W swoim "Little Dictionary of Fashion" Dior podkreślał ważność wpływu kobiecego ubioru "po domu" na samopoczucie i trudno mi się z nim nie zgodzić. Uważam, że to właśnie w domu powinniśmy dbać o wygląd-w końcu to miejsce, które dzielimy z bliskimi. Ważniejsze jest dobrze wyglądać dla nich, a nie dla przypadkowych ludzi na ulicach.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKOrn76tEBcv-MFmUtiCGcRXHPMjrmjxopzkzDr-hrya0xVje7W9UZrrCnOvwGBhC3bEtAvQn223t1YImGsx3XG8KtRybqrMr4M_1dgA12Iy667KRKXwMI-yrGBAT9VCwfPkiAsOHRR4g/s1600/blogr3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1194" data-original-width="826" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKOrn76tEBcv-MFmUtiCGcRXHPMjrmjxopzkzDr-hrya0xVje7W9UZrrCnOvwGBhC3bEtAvQn223t1YImGsx3XG8KtRybqrMr4M_1dgA12Iy667KRKXwMI-yrGBAT9VCwfPkiAsOHRR4g/s320/blogr3.JPG" width="221" /></a></div>
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I have chosen a tried-and-tested pattern from the 60s-Style 1404. My previous housecoat(which I have worn to shreds) was also made form 1404. I went for a three-quarter length sleeves and full length of the garment itself.<br />
Side note: since this was at-home photo shoot, my husband suggested that I should behave naturally; hence the smoking and the drinking as I smoke and drink shamelessly-if you're bothered by things like this, it's better you leave this blog entry. Thank you.<br />
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<i>Wybrałam stary i sprawdzony wykrój z lat 60-Style 1404. Mój poprzedni housecoat, ktróy zanosiłam na śmierć, także był szyty z tej koperty. Do obecnego wybrałam rękawy 3/4 i długość do ziemi. </i><br />
<i>Uwaga na marginesie: w związku z tym, że zdjęcia robiliśmy w domu, mąż zaproponował, że mam się zachowywać naturalnie; a że naturalnie bezwstydnie palę i piję, to robię to też tutaj. Jeśli macie nadwrażliwość na takie rzeczy, najlepiej będzie, jak klikniecie krzyżyk w prawym górnym rogu przeglądarki. Dziękuję.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOp8KokcPlqwhAVPzTbShGZ0ZR4Y4erJQqdy6HU35k6mwqnmdPX4y7ABRt8mrdrc1pcvEYim748JtjRriyPJJCnmFaVJhSM08y-WbI6QKaxKb1o6wV8ytsA9weev3vCBsrEYBkSRo5su0/s1600/blogr4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="850" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOp8KokcPlqwhAVPzTbShGZ0ZR4Y4erJQqdy6HU35k6mwqnmdPX4y7ABRt8mrdrc1pcvEYim748JtjRriyPJJCnmFaVJhSM08y-WbI6QKaxKb1o6wV8ytsA9weev3vCBsrEYBkSRo5su0/s320/blogr4.JPG" width="226" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkhzZBNtTfYwA1YiydB2FPyOvWksH_9O88nXjUTj2CUUoSmEfd8wmFKyfnK0fQo-bPCv58SlH3C5dlQ12T8e2vJdjGY736xNOh4cXkfdoKvKwNDH8qsP1x8W_x1Wi11K_7QtWbS0pj8s/s1600/blog+d1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkhzZBNtTfYwA1YiydB2FPyOvWksH_9O88nXjUTj2CUUoSmEfd8wmFKyfnK0fQo-bPCv58SlH3C5dlQ12T8e2vJdjGY736xNOh4cXkfdoKvKwNDH8qsP1x8W_x1Wi11K_7QtWbS0pj8s/s200/blog+d1.JPG" width="200" /></a>The fabric chosen for this project had to be both warm, comfortable and feminine; fortunately, I have found some soft, boiled grey wool fused with black lace. It was easy to work with, didn't fray much and gave some much needed body to the pattern. I thought it would be a good idea to highlight the cuffs and skirt opening by cutting them on the fabric border, where a little strip of lace-less(is that a word?) wool was visible. All of the seam allowances were overcasted by hand and then stitched down to the main pieces; I also strengthened the armscye, the waist, the hem and the collar seam allowances with cotton bias binding. The housecoat was to close by a tie-belt, but to make it more secure and put together I added 3 black snaps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXf7zxpyr76F6wpIC8uZDgwK6vGO_FCdzWOBX8VvYI60iVcnBBqihLLK9eQJvJQAeXoembKPKiO2vpMbVIjHQgGqCWG3dGzPBDasOrMVElJxl3P46Hg7Y5HTTecjYUpJG7zOJS3c8tzO8/s1600/pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="597" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXf7zxpyr76F6wpIC8uZDgwK6vGO_FCdzWOBX8VvYI60iVcnBBqihLLK9eQJvJQAeXoembKPKiO2vpMbVIjHQgGqCWG3dGzPBDasOrMVElJxl3P46Hg7Y5HTTecjYUpJG7zOJS3c8tzO8/s320/pattern.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCv8r5vshe5zAZuSW5V2eG5hG6sG1Tme6w2J1xRUiiHYqwm1xVPF99YgNsH7LOerDVZwUsS3oDp0_yjrxZg7zRvqr4xzG7y5xsvn11O8FchSUK3zZ51PPjZSnwGFHsW7bO978M9CTW5o/s1600/blog+d2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="1000" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCv8r5vshe5zAZuSW5V2eG5hG6sG1Tme6w2J1xRUiiHYqwm1xVPF99YgNsH7LOerDVZwUsS3oDp0_yjrxZg7zRvqr4xzG7y5xsvn11O8FchSUK3zZ51PPjZSnwGFHsW7bO978M9CTW5o/s200/blog+d2.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<i>Materiał, który wybrałam, miał za zadanie być ciepły, wygodny i kobiecy. Udało mi się upolować mięciutki wełniany flausz, który by klejony z czarną koronką. Wygodny w szyciu, nie strzępił się, potrafił nieźle utrzymać strukturę. Pomyślałam, że dobrym pomysłem byłoby zaakcentować mankiety i brzeg spódnicy, krojąc je przy brzegu tkaniny, gdzie koronka się dopiero zaczynała.</i><br />
<i>Zapasy szwów obrzuciłam ręcznie i przyszyłam je do głównych części wykroju; zapasy pach, kołnierza, talii i podszycia wzmocniłam dodatkowo bawełnianą taśmą ze skosu. Housecoat miał się zamykać tylko wiązanym paskiem, ale dla porządniejszego wyglądu doszyłam jeszcze 3 czarne zatrzaski.</i><br />
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Let me know if you're joining my quest to bring back glamorous house wear ;><br />
<i>Czy dołączacie do mojej misji przywrócenia szykownej wygody w domu? ;></i>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-46152626441483195262017-11-05T16:21:00.004+01:002017-11-05T21:38:47.747+01:00Paco Peralta's T-Coat // T-Coat od Paco PeraltyDear Readers,<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmw7KF-XmRKr06GdhsHn_2DdVYRIPD4lBTxIV8G1uCeqY7xIjJr3BuLphwvLoj1hyphenhyphenJM9JE2-afMaSQILUDlt9pCI65yqx3Tw4QqEFERqCkgZzK3xTxSUwXvTV2wOncrPLyaBeiIg1_PoQ/s1600/r5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmw7KF-XmRKr06GdhsHn_2DdVYRIPD4lBTxIV8G1uCeqY7xIjJr3BuLphwvLoj1hyphenhyphenJM9JE2-afMaSQILUDlt9pCI65yqx3Tw4QqEFERqCkgZzK3xTxSUwXvTV2wOncrPLyaBeiIg1_PoQ/s400/r5.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I was inspired by <a href="https://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.pt/2017/01/a-red-t-coat-bcn-unique-pattern-final.html" target="_blank">Tany</a> to try out a pattern for a T-Coat from Paco Peralta. The delightful customer service and prompt delivery were a good start, so I went ahead, buying black and white wool tweed, as well as plum/burgundy acetate lining. Since there were no instructions, I made a muslin first ( as those of you who follow me on Instagram already knew). There were separate pieces for lining, which made the sewing easier; I cut a medium size and it fitted well straight out the envelope, so I went on to sew the real thing.<br />
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqAwz9_oxY5um-PF5IT7eWTETMLGBlOjxS0KwdwV8ZIIW50HP7BLIkmAYDb2hCS7jFUECSjG_tts52nfToH9A0jUFqbKZSdkI33SIw1TbYBhxBdjHPJgBm7YcbJkx6BP2xQyfqx0DvBA/s1600/r3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="675" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqAwz9_oxY5um-PF5IT7eWTETMLGBlOjxS0KwdwV8ZIIW50HP7BLIkmAYDb2hCS7jFUECSjG_tts52nfToH9A0jUFqbKZSdkI33SIw1TbYBhxBdjHPJgBm7YcbJkx6BP2xQyfqx0DvBA/s320/r3.JPG" width="216" /></a></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2I5SAZnRmgtgRX1zDJvDy664SfvdG4SYrOS6Wu9asffveRD-TezAb8WxN0JF10zndpeFVDhuR_woBmMnLx1KRQhTQX5epKHAQ2NgLYa3prohFHXN7MtH3uKs3prRiSwou7vekFtvZ2SM/s1600/r4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="675" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2I5SAZnRmgtgRX1zDJvDy664SfvdG4SYrOS6Wu9asffveRD-TezAb8WxN0JF10zndpeFVDhuR_woBmMnLx1KRQhTQX5epKHAQ2NgLYa3prohFHXN7MtH3uKs3prRiSwou7vekFtvZ2SM/s320/r4.JPG" width="216" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_uV4t4Z001XpBv16qzL3egLilHdT6dml7cfkU5d_FNkw3QeCv2NDEHHNVIbEGoj4l-xMJ8OxJOKEFzbCBg12LtCk7e9y1eV5DnDV1uLMsQmyhWCh4iU2saRQp_mRsCTAoJeqnubxLm8/s1600/r6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="710" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_uV4t4Z001XpBv16qzL3egLilHdT6dml7cfkU5d_FNkw3QeCv2NDEHHNVIbEGoj4l-xMJ8OxJOKEFzbCBg12LtCk7e9y1eV5DnDV1uLMsQmyhWCh4iU2saRQp_mRsCTAoJeqnubxLm8/s320/r6.JPG" width="227" /></a></i></div>
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<i><a href="https://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.pt/2017/01/a-red-t-coat-bcn-unique-pattern-final.html" target="_blank">Tany</a> zainspirowała mnie do wypróbowania wykroju na T-Coat od Paco Peralty. Doskonała obsługa klienta i szybka dostawa stanowiły dobry początek projektu, więc idąc za ciosem zakupiłam czarno-biały wełniany tweed i śliwkowy acetat na podszewkę. Biorąc pod uwage brak instrukcji w wykroju, zaczęłam szycie od wykonania bawełnianej próbki (Ci z Was, którzy śledzą mnie na Instagramie, już o tym wiedzą;) ). Osobne elementy na skrojenie podszewki ułatwiły mi zadanie; wyciachałam rozmiar średni, ktróy po zszyciu pasował bez żadnych większych poprawek.</i><br />
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I decided that my wool tweed needed some support to get a more <i>bouncy </i>quality, which would help to show off the coat's shape. So I cut the pattern pieces both in wool and then in olive silk organza, basted all the corresponding ones together and since then treated my silk-backed wool as one layer of fabric. I used the hair canvas as an interfacing, which I sewed into the collar and along the front openings. Instead of the usual padstitch, I decided to try out the Dior couture technique for triple organza application and catchstitched the interfacings in place. All the seam allowances were overcasted by hand and then catchstitched to the silk organza backing.<br />
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<i>Moja wełna wymagała trochę wsparcia, bu poruszać się z większą sprężystością i dobrze oddać kształt płaszcza; tak więc wszystkie elementy wycięłam podwójnie - z wełny i z jedwabnej organzy w oliwkowym odcieniu. Następnie je sfastrygowałam i od tamtej pory traktowałam jako jedną warstwę. Interfacing powstał ze sztywnego płótna, by wzmocnić kołnierz i przednie brzegi. Zamiast tradycyjnego padstitcha postanowiłam wszyć go catchstitchem, zainspirowana sposobem usztywniania sukienek potrójną organzą w pracowaniach Diora. Wszystkie zapasy szwów są obrzucone ręcznie i potem zaczepione catchstitchem (jedynie o jedwab).</i><br />
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Sewing up the coat was very easy and pleasant and it's all thanks to wonderfully made pattern. It has clever details, such as buttonholes within the seams, facings cut in one with the main pieces and wonderful deep cuff facings, which can be turned back to showcase a lovely pair of gloves.<br />
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<i>Szycie płaszcza było proste i przyjemne, głównie ze względu na świetny wykrój. Ma on wiele ciekawych detali, np. dziurki na guziki umieszczone w szwach, odszycia skrojone w całości z głównymi elementami, głębokie odszycia mankietów (które można śmiało wywijać, by prezentować wszem i wobec swoje rękawiczki;) ).</i><br />
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I wouldn't be myself if I hadn't made any changes. I added additional closures: the snap on the collar and a hook-and-eye in the place where the third button could be placed. I also drafted goblet-shaped pockets that fasten with snaps (buttons are purely ornamental). I sewn on the black buttons with a white buttonhole twist, as I like to do on bicolour woolens.<br />
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<i>Nie byłabym sobą, gdybym nie wprowadziła swoich poprawek. Dodałam zapięcia: zatrzask na kołnierzu oraz haftkę w miejscu, gdzie wypadałby trzeci guzik. Narysowałam sobie także kielichowate kieszenie, które zamykają się na zatrzask (guziczki są dla ozdoby). Czarne guziki przyszyłam białą buttonhole twist; lubię ten efekt na dwukolorowych materiałach.</i><br />
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Finally-the lining! The separate pieces make it straightforward to sew a beautiful, precise lining. It's drafted with a back pleat and proper fullness at the hem. I cut the lining for the coat and pockets in a burgundy acetate, as I wanted to break the monochrome.<br />
The coat had already had so many outings it's sure to become a wardrobe staple. :)<br />
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<i>No i w końcu-podszewka! Osobne elementy wykroju bardzo ułatwiają szycie. Ta część ma dużo zapasu materiału dzięki zakładce na plecach i kontrolowanemu nadmiarowi przy dolnym brzegu płaszcza. Podszewka powstała z bordowego acetatu, by przełamać monochromię.</i><br />
<i>Płaszcz był już noszony tyle razy, że z pewnością zajmie zacne miejsce w codziennej garderobie. :)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-87546547758097833062017-10-09T21:48:00.003+02:002017-10-09T21:48:53.836+02:00Double troubleDear Readers,<br />
<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2VPMxTTXnvv7aXGfLjIe0e8hzsRi5DO7LPXUa9xtU4FkBMkYtBM2oBrS7D6R0D057_z_4NxCVa-ctKhCTBnT0BVhl0THAyUUBXmhLLg3V9KRe0eYtIcy7cOHhucx6SpIGU1A_8hpOtr8/s1600/d8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="1000" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2VPMxTTXnvv7aXGfLjIe0e8hzsRi5DO7LPXUa9xtU4FkBMkYtBM2oBrS7D6R0D057_z_4NxCVa-ctKhCTBnT0BVhl0THAyUUBXmhLLg3V9KRe0eYtIcy7cOHhucx6SpIGU1A_8hpOtr8/s200/d8.JPG" width="200" /></a>this is a double post about two new garments I've sewn. I had been searching for a vintage Simplicity 4538 pattern for some time, never having any luck with buying it. When I discovered that Simplicity has just reissued this design as a <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-8452-misses-vintage-knit-blouse/S8452.html#sz=30&start=80" target="_blank">repro 8452</a>, it landed straight into my shopping basket and I ordered it right away.<br />
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The blouse is in fact a two-seam rectangle, but what a glorious rectangle it is. It is quick to make (it took me one afternoon form cutting to giving the final touches), drapes beautifully and has two glorious 1950s characteristics: it gives a wide yet soft-shouldered look and accentuates the waist like a solid cincher.<br />
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<i>dzisiejszy post to pewnego rodzaju dyptyk o nowych szyciowych tworach:) Przez długi czas poszukiwałam wykroju Simplicity 4538 z lat 50, nigdy nie mając wystarczająco szczęścia, by go ustrzelić na aukcji. Gdy odkryłam, że Simplicity wydało go jako przedruk z numerem <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-8452-misses-vintage-knit-blouse/S8452.html" target="_blank">8452</a>, od razu wpadł do mojego koszyka.</i><br />
<i>Bluzka ta to w rzeczywistości dwuszwowy prostokąt; cóż to jednak za wspaniały zamysł: szybko się go szyje (wykonane bluzki, od skrojenia po wykończenia, zajęło mi jedno popołudnie), przepięknie drapuje i ma dwie bardzo istotne dla stylu lat 50 cechy: kreuje szeroką, choć opływową linię ramion i zaznacza wcięcie w talii z mocą porządnego cinchera.</i><br />
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My blouse was made in plum punto milano jersey. I didn't have enough yardage to cut the blouse out in one piece, so I added one on-grain center seam. I finished all the seams by hand, slipstitching hems into place. I decided to reinforce the back and armhole openings by arrow tacks and I added one teeny-tiny snap to hold the blouse in place; it is supposed to be worn anchored by tucking it into a skirt, but as I like the peaking hemline, I wear it over the bottoms. The blouse provides a beautiful background for showing off your brooches, so a bonus point for that.<br />
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<i>Moją bluzkę wykonałam ze śliwkowego punto milano. Miałam nieco zbyt mało materiału, by skroić bluzkę w jednym kawałku, więc dodałam jej dodatkowy, centralny szew. Wszystkie wykończenia tradycyjnie już wykonałam ręcznie, podszywając niewidocznie każdy zapas. Postanowiłam wzmocnić otwory przy pachach oraz rozcięcie z tyłu tzw. arrow tack, dodałam też malutki zatrzask, by utrzymać przód w pozycji ustalonej;). Bluzka w teorii ma być "zapięta" poprzez zatknięcie przodów w pasek spódnicy, ale z racji tego, że podobają mi się "szpice" przy dolnej krawędzi, wolę nosić ją w formie wypuszczonej. To niepozorne ubranie stanowi także piękne tło dla eksponowania broszek, za co dostaje dodatkowe punkty.</i><br />
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The skirt (shown here with a vintage 1950s jacket) was made especially for my trip - it had to be easy to pair with other garments, comfortable and light to wear and present no wrinkling problems; that's why it's made of (gasp)... poly suiting. I almost never sew with synthetics, but this fabric was so beautiful, light, drapey and crease-resistant that it got to be the winner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBSVd-rjFf1aDixDwIiEI2MXs0N2iIIDI_9fP4aoLSH4H5BCbAaZPPqMbsZ1V1uzF_8BcRQFO8mIk_Pgwi5sAbbW9xbE-jtjdClucye0PSGZkk6a522QfYK009ziM2u5c__gVAbsQa2OM/s1600/d9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1000" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBSVd-rjFf1aDixDwIiEI2MXs0N2iIIDI_9fP4aoLSH4H5BCbAaZPPqMbsZ1V1uzF_8BcRQFO8mIk_Pgwi5sAbbW9xbE-jtjdClucye0PSGZkk6a522QfYK009ziM2u5c__gVAbsQa2OM/s200/d9.JPG" width="200" /></a> My pattern was the bottom part of a vintage Butterick 6976 form 1954. Side note: it was one of the very first vintage patterns I have ever bought... The skirt has 6 panels and features 4 box-pleats, which amounts to a great fullness at the hem and creates very graceful movements. I used canvas to interface the belt, made a pick-stitched zip and added a big snap at the waistband. The skirt is fully lined; the lining mirrors the garment and is put in by hand; it joins the skirt's hemline at the grosgrain ribbon, which I included not only to make everything look prettier, but to add weight to the hem as well.<br />
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<i>caught in the rain</i></div>
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<i>Spódnicę (zestawioną tutaj z kurtką z lat 50) stworzyłam specjalnie na wyjazd - w założeniu potrzebowałam czegoś, co by się dobrze łączyło z innymi ubraniami, było wygodne, lekkie i nie gniotło się; stąd też moja decyzja, bu użyć (głęboki wdech)... poliestrowej tkaniny kostiumowej. Praktycznie nigdy nie szyję z syntetyków, ale ten materiał był tak piękny, lekki, drapujący się i odporny na zagniecenia, że nie dało się go nie wybrać. Jako wykroju użyłam dołu z Buttericka 6976 z roku 1954. Swoją drogą-to jeden z pierwszych wykrojów vintage, jakie kiedykolwiek kupiłam... Spódnica ma 6 paneli i 4 głębokie kontrafałdy, co daje nam duuuużo materiału poruszającego się z wyjątkową gracją. Pasek spódnicy wzmocniłam płótnem, zamek wszyłam pick stitchem, by był jak najmniej widoczny, dodałam też duży zatrzask jako zapięcie w talii. Spódnica ma podszewkę, która jest wszyta ręcznie, spotykając się z tkaniną wierzchnią przy położeniu dołu; jest on wykończony taśmą rypsową - nie tylko ze względów estetycznych, lecz także by dociążyć materiał.</i><br />
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All the photos by me or my Husband. :)</div>
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<i>Wszystkie zdjęcia autorstwa mojego lub Mężowego:)</i></div>
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<i><br /></i>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-43348325889240881382017-09-29T16:16:00.005+02:002017-09-29T16:26:48.331+02:00The Paris coat // Płaszcz paryskiDear Readers,<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
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I have been very quiet for the last few weeks. It was all due to the sewing marathon that I had planned to prepare for my Paris trip. As soon as I've heard there's going to be a major Dior haute couture exposition, I booked the tickets (especially since I'm still mad at myself for missing the L'ouvre du noir with Balenciaga ensembles, even if it was due to the financial reasons).<br />
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<i> ostatnie parę tygodni to cisza w eterze z mojej strony - wszystko z racji szyciowego maratonu, który miał za zadanie przygotować mnie na Paryż. Jak tylko zobaczyłam, że planowana jest wielka wystawa haute couture Diora, od razu kupiłam bilety (zwłaszcza, że z powodów budżetowych musiałam ominąć L'oeuvre du noir z Balenciagą, za co do tej pory jestem na siebie bardzo, bardzo zła).</i><i><br /></i><br />
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I knew that I had to make a coat as it's the most important piece of a travel wardrobe; not only due to the fact that it keeps you warm and cozy in a plane or during long walks, but also because a good coat is the simplest and quickest style statement you can make, covering all the in-between clothing beneath.<br />
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<i> Wiedziałam, że najważniejszy w szyciowych planach na podróż jest płaszcz; ma on podwójne zadanie otulania ciepłem w samolocie czy podczas długich pieszych wycieczek, jak również bycia najszybszym i najprostszym sposobem na >dobrze poukładany< wygląd, chowając części pozostałej garderoby pod sobą.</i><br />
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I have bought this beautiful wool because of its outstanding deep red shade. Since it's boiled and pressed it was easy to work with, with no fraying and bulky seams (it responded really well to severe beating with a tailor's clapper;) ). When I got my hands on <a href="http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-1961.html" target="_blank">Marfy 1961</a> I knew I had a match and a trip to Paris was a perfect excuse to sew it up. I had a feeling the deep red would photograph well on the beige background of the City of Lights.<br />
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<i> Kupiłam tę piękną wełnę ze względu na jej odcień głebokiej czerwieni Jest to prasowany flausz, więc praca z nim była prosta; nie strzępił się, nie był zbyt gruby na szwach, dając się dobrze spłaszczyć pod wpływem bezlitosnych ataków clapperem ;). Gdy znalazłam wykrój <a href="http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-1961.html" target="_blank">Marfy 1961</a>, wiedziałam, że mam dobry zestaw, zwłaszcza, że wyjazd dawał mi idealny pretekst do rozpoczęcia prac nad szyciem. Miałam przeczucie, że szkarłat wełny będzie się dobrze fotografował na tle beżu Miasta Świateł.</i><br />
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It was my first time working with a Marfy pattern. Since it has no instructions, I had made a muslin prior to cutting the wool; the pattern was so well drafted and marked that it turned out to cause no assembly problems, but thanks to the trial run in cheap cotton I could determine which details I would change.<br />
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<i> Pierwszy raz szyłam z wykrojem od Marfy. Ze względu na to, iż firma ta nie dodaje instrukcji do swoich projektów, wykonałam próbkę płaszcza zanim przystąpiłam do ciachania wełny. Na szczęście wykrój był tak dobrze rozrysowany i oznaczony, że poskładanie całości nie było żadnym problemem, natomiast próbka z taniej bawełny i tak okazała się bardzo przydatna, gdyż mogłam na niej wyróbować kilka modyfikacji projektu.</i><br />
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The coat was beautifully drafted, with a spectacular collar, interesting front shaping and -last but not least - the best-fitting sleeve that I have worked with. My modifications included lengthening the garment to make it more 1950s-appropriate, changing the collar gathers to small pleats, adding rows of topstitching, removing pockets and putting and emphasis on the sleeves by accentuating the cuffs.<br />
I decided to interface the collar with a double row of silk organza strip to support the pleats; the rest of the collar is left soft, allowing the natural wool draping qualities to stand out. The shoulder and armhole seams are strengthened by a twill tape, with a self-fabric sleeve heads. The front openings and cuffs are sewn with a strong, thin canvas padstitiched inside. The hem and the facings are catchstitched and all is covered by lining; coat fastens with 4 lining-covered snaps. The viscose lining was put in all by hand, but the fabric is too fragile and I already know I'll have to rip it out and replace it.<br />
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Plase stay tuned as I have many new sewing projects to show you :-)<br />
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<i><br /></i><i> Płaszcz był perfekcyjnie rozrysowany, przyciągając uwagę spektakularnym kołnierzem, ciekawym sposobem uformowania przodu oraz - co wymaga podkreślenia - najlepiej dopasowanym rękawem, z jakim do tej pory pracowałam. Moje modyfikacje obejmowały wydłużenie płaszcza, by był bardziej dopasowany długością do ubrań z lat 50; zmianę marszczenia przy kołnierzu na drobne plisy; dodanie rzędów stębnowania; pozbycie się kieszeni i podkreślenie rękawów poprzez wyeksponowanie mankietów. Kołnierz wzmocniłam podwójną warstwą jedwabnej organzy, jednak tylko w okolicy plis; reszta kołnierza pozostawiona jest >na miękko<, by podkreślić naturalne właściwości drapujące wełny. Szwy ramion i podkroju pachy wzmocniłam diagonalnie plecioną bawełnianą taśmą (twill tape), dodałam też wełniane sleeve heads. Przód i mankiety wzmocnione są sztywnym, cienkim płótnem, które zostało wszyte padstitchem. Odszycia i podłożenie są zakotwiczone catchstitchem, a całość przykryta jest podszewką; płaszcz zamyka się na 4 zatrzaski, które powlekłam materiałem podszewkowym. Całość wszyłam ręcznie, jednak już widzę, iż wiskoza podszewkowa jest zbyt delikatna - będę ją musiała wypruć i zastąpić czymś mocniejszym.</i><br />
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<i>Wkrótce kolejne posty z nowymi projktami, zapraszam do śledzenia bloga :-)</i><br />
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All the photos were taken by my Husband.<br />
<i>Wszystkie zdjęc</i><i>ia autorstwa rudzikowego Męża. </i><br />
<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-14777903732373730462017-07-30T12:20:00.001+02:002017-07-30T12:34:54.954+02:00In detail // Od ogółu do szczgółuDear Readers,<br />
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as I've mentioned previously, sewing the McCall's M7374 coat was a delight. The pattern is perfectly drafted and has a lot of wonderful details, such as two-piece sleeves, hook and eye closure, a stand up collar, sleeve heads, back slit and both edge- and topstitching, which draw the eye to the majestic head-to-toe princess lines.<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
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<i> jak już wspominałam, szycie z M7374 od McCall's to czysta przyjemność. Wykrój jest idealnie rozrysowany i zawiera w sobie mnóstwo pięknych detali, np. dwuczęściowe rękawy, zapięcie na haftki, postawiony kołnierz, sleeve heads, rozcięcie z tyłu i dwa rzędy ozdobnego stębnowania, które podkreślają spektakularne, biegnące do ziemi linie szwów.</i><br />
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I went for the view B with C-inspired sleeve straps. I made epaulette-style straps as well, to further emphasize the shoulder line. I've interfaced my soft black wool with heavy canvas to keep the shape; I used it to create custom sleeve heads. I added shoulder pads (the left one is slightly bigger due to asymmetry of the shoulders), which I covered in the lining fabric. I've omitted the edgestitching and went for a topstitching detail in red silk to match the lining.<br />
P.S. Most of today's photos are taken using <span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Renée</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: bold;"> </span>the mannequin-that's why the fit is a little bit off.<br />
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Enjoy the photos :-)<br />
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<i>Wybrałam wersję B, ale wzbogaciłam ją o zapożyczone z C pasy na rękawach; w podobnym stylu są też naramienniki, które mają za zadanie dodatkowo podkreślać szeroką linię ramion. Flausz wełniany wzmocniłam płótnem, by pomogło trzymać kształt. Z tych samych materiałów powstały też sleeve heads. Poduszki na ramiona zrobione są ręcznie (lewa poducha jest nieco większa, by wyrównać asymetrię), powleczone materiałem podszewki. Z dwóch rzędów stębnowania pozostawiłam jeden, ale za to w kontrastowym kolorze z jedwabnej, czerwonej nitki, która dobrana jest pod wnętrze płaszcza. </i><br />
<i>PS. Większość dzisiejszych zdjęć wykonanych jest z pomocą Renée aka wiernego manekina - stąd te różnice w dopasowaniu kroju do sylwetki.</i><br />
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<i>Smacznego ;-))))</i><br />
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<i> Pockets and collar were understitched by hand. // Understitch przy kieszeniach i kołnierzu wykonany ręcznie</i></div>
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<i>Lining-covered shoulder pads // Poduchy na ramiona w "kieszonkach" z podszewki</i><br />
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rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-45897510010159959562017-07-28T00:46:00.000+02:002017-07-28T00:46:25.496+02:00A special kind of creature // Stworzenie bardzo wyjątkowe <br />
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My Husband is a special kind of creature. Born out of spite, brought up by himself, surrounded by role models he had found in a fantasy world of comics and games.<br />
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When I first saw McCall's M7374 I fell in love with its majestic lines. Husband shared this enthusiasm and so we imagined a coat that would be a cross between the ones worn by DMC's Dante, the Punisher or WWE's Undertaker - all with a little bit of our own ideas thrown in.<br />
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We bought over 5.5 yards(!) of beautiful, soft and thick black wool, red silk thread for topstitching details and cherry red viscose for the lining. The pattern is truly a dream to work with. I honestly don't remeber working with such a wonderful project: the coat is expertly drafted, has tons of couture-flavoured details and the instructions are clean and easy. Such a dream to sew....But more about that later; I'm going to do a post on contruction details with detailed garment photos, but as for now please enjoy our <i>mood</i> photos. This time we felt like it was the opposite day: I was the photographer and my Husband stood in front of the camera.<br />
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<i> Dziś dzielę się zdjęciami stworzenia bardzo wyjątkowego - mojego Męża. Uszyłam mu płaszcz wedle McCall's M7374, inspirując się jego światem: DMC, starych postaci z Marvela i złotych gwiazd WWE. Post z detalami konstrukcyjnymi już się tworzy, póki co zostawiam Was ze zdjęciami mniej technicznymi, a bardziej klimatycznymi. Tym razem role się odwracają: ja łapię za aparat, a On staje przed obiektywem.</i><br />
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rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-52306084336939839582017-06-18T12:39:00.001+02:002017-06-20T11:48:49.258+02:00 The weather forecast / Prognoza pogodyDear Readers,<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy,</i><br />
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I've been through some rough few weeks and most of my sewing projects seemed to be doomed from the very start.<br />
Since I've never been good at season-correct sewing, I decided to sew something just to have some fun, and it's that very project that has turned out to be my first wearable project for some time.<br />
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<i> Za mną kilka paskudnych tygodni; pociągnęło to za sobą wiele skazanych na porażkę projektów szyciowych.</i><br />
<i>Nigdy nie byłam zbyt dobra w szyciu na aktualną porę roku, więc postanowiłam, że zrobię coś czysto dla przyjemności - i właśnie ten przyjemny zamysł okazał się być pierwszą od dawna rzeczą, której nie wstyd wciągnąć na grzbiet.</i><br />
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I've had the Vogue V1137 pattern for some time now. In fact, its dress was one of my first dresses ever sewn. Now I decided to try making the coat. It's an exceptionally well-drafted pattern. I love the silhouette that the swing coats and jackets create; glamourous yet comfortable. I've had some wonderful, thick and warm wool tweed in my stash for many years; it was sitting there, waiting for a perfect project with a perfect yardage. I had only 140cm of this wool (about 1.5 yard), so I went for a jacket based on a coat pattern, ordering some fluffy yet smooth wool for contrasts and facings.<br />
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<i> Vogue V1137 mam już od dawna; jego sukienka była jedną z pierwszych, jakie kiedykolwiek uszyłam. Teraz postanowiłam zmierzyć się z płaszczem. V1137 jest absolutnie doskonale rozrysowanym wykrojem. Uwielbiam krój płaszczy i kurtek typu swing; są jednocześnie szykowne i komfortowe. Miałam kawałek pięknego, grubego i cieplutkiego wełnianego tweedu od paru lat; siedział sobie w szafie i czekał na idealny zamysł z idealnym zużyciem materiału. Wspomniany materiał miał tylko 140cm, więc z płaszcza powstała kurtka, wspomagana świeżo zamówionym, puchatym flauszem na kontrasty i odszycia.</i><br />
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All the photos of me are by my dear Husband. All the garment detail photos are by me.</div>
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<i>Zdjęcia mnie to zasługa mojego wspaniałego Męża; zdjęcia detali kurtki wykonywałam ja.</i></div>
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I had to modify the pattern by shortening it to hit 7cm (2.75 inch) below the waist, adding facings and lining (it's a pattern for a double-sided coat), skipping the pockets and making some room at the front to overlap left and right sides + make buttonholes + fit in the buttons.<br />
I tried to make the bound buttonholes using the silk organza for the openings (to reduce the bulk) and the black, contrast wool for the lips. I'm so pleased with them as they add some definition to the jacket. I've used more-1960s-than-1950s buttons and-as they were flat and black-I've used the white buttonhole twist to sew them on.<br />
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<i> Musiałam nieco zmodyfikować wykrój (pierwotny plan zakłada płaszcz dwustronny); skróciłam go do 7 cm poniżej talii, dodałam odszycia i podszewkę, ominęłam kieszenie oraz dodałam trochę zapasu z prawej i lewej strony przodu, tak by mogły na siebie zachodzić, zapinając się na guziki.</i><br />
<i>Spróbowałam wykonać bound buttonholes i nie żałuję, gdyż nadało to całemu ubraniu wyrazu. Użyłam jedwabnej organzy do wzmocnienia wycięć (użycie tweedu by wszystko straszliwie pogrubiło), a czarnego flauszu do wykonania zakładek zamykających dziurkę. Czarne, duże i płaskie guziki są nieco bardziej w stylu lat 60, nie 50; by je ożywić, użyłam białej nici typu buttonhole twist.</i><br />
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When making the black acetate lining, I've added a small pleat at the center back to have even more ease. I've catchstitched the facings in place and I've sewn all the lining in by hand.<br />
If you're interested by construction details/progress updates, I suggest you take a look at my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/rvdzikewa/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, where I try to keep track of what I'm currently doing.<br />
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<i>Przy krojeniu podszewki z czarnego acetatu zostawiłam nieco miejsca na zakładkę przy szwie tyłu, by jej ruch nie krępował ruchu materiału wierzchniego. Odszycia przyszyłam catchstitchem (tudzież ściegiem zakopiańskim), a podszewkę wszyłam ręcznie.<br />Jeśli interesują was aktualizacje z postępów prac lub też dodatkowe detale, sugeruję rzucenie okiem na mojego<a href="https://www.instagram.com/rvdzikewa/" target="_blank"> Instagrama</a>, gdzie staram się być na bieżąco z moimi projektami.</i><br />
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How to you feel about swing coats and jackets?<br />
<i>A Wy - co sądzicie o takim kroju płąszczy i kurtek?</i><br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-48370660563468793662017-05-12T19:25:00.000+02:002017-05-12T19:31:18.562+02:00Swing time, nordic style // Swing time w stylu skandynawskimDear Readers,<br />
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lately I've went through a series of bad sewing projects - they are the reason for the prolonged blog silence...But! I'm coming back with a 1930s blouse I've made as a gift.<br />
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<i>Drodzy czytelnicy,</i><br />
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<i> ostatnio miałam podejrzanie złą passę do szyciowych projektów, stąd też taka cisza na blogu...Ale, ale! Wracam już do Was z bluzką inspirowaną liniami lat 30, którą wykonałam na prezent.</i><br />
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I had a wonderful<a href="https://www.instagram.com/1930s_cherie/" target="_blank"> Lady</a> for an inspiration. This nordic beauty lives and breathes 1930s and we got together for a project influenced by a creation worn by Ginger in Swing Time (1936) during the Pick Yourself Up number. As I don't like direct copying, the creation got a mind of its own (manifested, most importantly, by the fabric).<br />
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<i>Moją inspiracją jest wspaniała <a href="https://www.instagram.com/1930s_cherie/" target="_blank">Dama</a>. Ta nordycka piękność jest idealnym przykładem dobrze odtworzonych lat 1930s, zarówno w ubiorze, jak i wystroju wnętrz. Razem zadecydowałyśmy, że odtworzymy coś na kształt stroju Ginger ze Swing Time (1936), z numeru Pick Yourself Up. Nie lubię kopiowania, więc kreacja zaczęła życ właśnym życiem i stała się granatowo-białą bluzką.</i><br />
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We went for a <span class="st">crêpe in a navy/white print with white cotton details. As a base for a pattern I've used the #118 from 11/2014 Burda. It's a surprisingly well made pattern and it was a dream to sew up (I've made a muslin first). I've changed the fastening to a more period-correct and charming row of buttons with self-fabric bias loops; repeated the motif at the neck and draped my own circle collar. The seam allowances are pinked and topstitched, the collar is understitched by hand, the hem is hand-rolled and the neck facing is finished by a soft band of lace.</span><br />
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<span class="st"> <i> Wspólnie wybrałyśmy granatowo-białą krepę i białą bawełnę na akcenty. Podstawą wykroju była 118 z Burdy 11/2014 (zaskakująco dobrze zaplanowana, szyło się wspaniale-choć (na zaś) najpierw skroiłam ją z próbnego materiału). Zmieniłam zapięcie na bliższy duchowi epoki rząd drobniutkich guziczków z ciętymi ze skosu pętelkami; motyw powtórzony jest też przy dekolcie. Udrapowałam też nowy kołnierz, cięty z koła. Zapasy szwów są ostębnowane i przycięte w zygzak, understitch przy kołnierzu jest wykonany ręcznie, podobnie jak podszycie bluzki. Odszycie szyi jest wykończone miękką koronką.</i></span><br />
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<span class="st">Thank you for reading! I hope that it's spring wherever you are - it has taken painfully long for the spring to start this year in Poland. Some regions got snow in May! o.o Awful.</span><br />
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<span class="st"><i>Dziękuję za wizytę na blogu:) Mam nadzieję, ze wiosna zagości u nas na dobre. Śnieg w maju to zdecydowanie nie moja bajka. ;)</i></span>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-75732108303268751462017-03-30T10:25:00.002+02:002017-05-11T14:10:34.093+02:00The morphology of the suit pt I // Morfologia kostiumu, część IDear Readers,<br />
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I've got one spring novelty and it's the <span class="st">bilinguality</span> of the blog (it's both English and Polish now). Those of you who follow me on Instagram already know that I'm putting a beautiful wool from <a href="http://weramade.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Wera</a> into use, making a 1961 suit. The pattern is McCall's 6199 and the version is C.<br />
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<i>Drodzy Czytelnicy :)</i><br />
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<i>Na początek wiosenna nowość: blog jest teraz prowadzony w dwóch językach :) Ci z Was, którzy obserwują mnie na Instagramie zauważyli już, że piękna wełna od <a href="http://weramade.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Wery</a> znajduje swoje przeznaczenie jako kostium z 1961 roku. Użyty wykrój to McCall's 6199, a wybrana wersja to C.</i><br />
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I've started sewing with the skirt, so I thread traced everything with a single layer of fabric ( I always do this for precision and since I have to match the fabric's pattern it's even more important that earlier). The bright lemon thread is the seam line; the red marks the matching spots, zipper endings etc., and the light pink thread (not shown here) was used for basting. After cutting the wool pieces I made a quick fitting with a running stitch; there was no need for major changes and I've gladly noticed that he front darts-sewn on the bias-are tho most flattering little things ever, making the stomach area natural and flat.<br />
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<i>Zaczęłam konstrukcję od spódnicy, więc na początku przeniosłam oznaczenia z wykroju na materiał używając nici i rezygnując z podwójnego złożenia materiału (zawsze tak robię, mając na celu jak najwyższy poziom precyzji, a biorąc pod uwagę, iż w tym materiale muszę jeszcze spasować wzór, było to podwójnie ważne). Nić w kolorze niedojrzałej cytryny:) oznacza linię szwu, nić czerwona ważne punkty spasowania, wszycia zamka itd., a różowa była użyta do fastrygowania (nie miała tyle szczęścia, by załapać się na zdjęcia). Gdy skroiłam już wełnę, zrobiłam szybką przymiarkę po sfastrygowaniu; nie było potrzeby robić rewolucyjnych zmian, a przy okazji z radością zauważyłam, że przednie zaszewki (szyte po skosie) to najbardziej wdzięczny drobiazg na świecie - dzięki nim spódnica leży w okolicach brzucha naturalnie i płasko.</i><br />
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The important thing was choosing the right interfacing. I was going to use it even before I read the instructions (since this is to become a suit and it has to hold its shape well), but I was very happy to see that pattern itself calls for full interfacing of the skirt. Ahhh, the joy of working with well-thought-out vintage sewing patterns. I picked a medium weigh and quite soft linen canvas, as linen tailors well and should work splendidly with the wool. I cut it without the seam allowances and - instead of sewing the darts and increasing the bulk - I cut out the dart "body" and joined the dart lines with a catchstich, shaping the skirt with minimum excess fabric.<br />
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<i>Istotną kwestią był wybór właściwego interfacingu (nie mam pojęcia, jak oddać jego ideę po polsku-nie jest to zwykłe wzmocnienie, nie jest to też sztywnik sensu stricto...). Placnowałam go nawet zanim zajrzałam w instrukcje wykroju (biorąc pod uwagę, że kostium to kostium i ma porządnie trzymać kształt), ale z radością odkryłam, że McCall's sam z siebie przewiduje pełne "wsparcie" głównego materiału spódnicy. Mmmmm, przyjemności płynące ze starych, dobrze przemyślanych wykrojów. Wybrałam średniej grubości miękkie lniane płótno, które-jak to len- dobrze znosi wszystkie krawieckie zabiegi i dzięki temu powinno współgrać z wełną. Skroiłam interfacing bez zapasów na szwy i zamiast uszyć w nim klasyczne zaszewki, wycięłam ich główną część, a linię szycia złączyłam ściegiem zakopiańskim; w tej sposób mamy maximum kształtu i minimum nadmiarowego materiału. </i><br />
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I joined the interfacing to the skirt, matching all the marks, with a loose basting stich, using orange silk thread; it runs parallel to the future vertical seams and extends beyond the linen pieces. Then the edges of the interfacing were joined to the seam allowance of the wool with a catchstitch. The half of the belt was padstitched to the stiff cotton/linen canvas as it will have to withstand more stress when wearing.<br />
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<i> Spasowując wszystkie oznaczenia, ułożyłam interfacing na wełnie; sfastrygowałam lużnym ściegiem używając jedwabnej nici (pomarańczowa); fastryga biegnie równolegle do przyszłych pionowych szwów w spódnicy i wychodzi nieco poza len. Brzegi lnu zostały na stałe przyszyte do zapasów szwu wełny ściegiem zakopiańskim. Połowa paska została uformowana padsitchem (brzmi to okropnie, czy ktoś zna polską nazwę tego ściegu?) na bazie sztywnego płótna z mieszanki bawełny i lnu, jako że będzie musiała znosić spore obciążenie podczas noszenia.</i><br />
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<i> </i>And then it was finally the time to match the pattern and sew the skirt - joining the seams, sewing in the belt, the zipper, the lining...But all of these will be presented in another part. As Hannibal Lecter used to say: All good things for those who wait. :)<br />
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<i>A potem nadszedł czas na spasowanie kratki i właściwe uszycie spódnicy - łączenie linii szwów, wszycie paska, zamka, podszewki....ale to w kolejnej części:) </i><br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-74151294756998934792017-03-24T12:03:00.003+01:002017-03-24T12:03:58.708+01:00Whiter shade of paleDear Readers,<br />
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<i>You probably know by know that my Husband took all the photos :)</i></div>
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<i> </i> some time ago I bought 2 remnant pieces of beautiful grosgrains: an apple green rayon and a creamy-white cotton one (found on http://aksamitny.com.pl/). I never worked with grosgrain except for the ribbons and I was surprised to find how delicate, soft and drapey it is. The rayon grosgrain has more body and is a bit firmer; the cotton is light and smooth; both have a wonderful, subtle sheen to them, which catches the light beautifully. The only problem is that thay fray like crazy: be sure to leave a considerable seam allowances and to properly secure them if sewing with grosgrain fabrics (I used a dense zig-zag stitch).<br />
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<i> Hades the cat is convinced he has hidden himself well</i></div>
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I used the Simplicity 8049 reproduction pattern. I was attracted to the three-armhole dress idea (which was invented by Vionnet and used as early as in th 1920s) and I liked the purity of its lines.<br />
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The construction was pretty straightforward; surprisingly enough, the front is cut on straight grain so the "cowl" had to be forced into the fabric somehow - it wouldn't collapse by itself like it should when cut on the bias; Simplicity did this using pleats. I decided to line the whole dress using my favourite Superior lining from Truro fabrics; this cleaned up the mess inside and helped to give the dress a little bit more body and less transparency. The lining pieces were created using main pattern pieces, I hand-stitched them in place all around the facings, the side seam and the hem.<br />
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I made some personal touches to the project: I added a lining cover to the snaps (they help to keep the wrap-around part in place), arranged the bow in a more sharped-line manner and made a separate belt, which fastens with 3 hooks-and eyes and a snap.<br />
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I was afraid that this kind of dress would look bad on a full busted figure but surprisingly it gives a light, fresh feeling, especially when it's unbelted. I consider sewing it up again, this time using some heavy jersey or <span class="st">crêpe .</span>What do you think about it?<br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-61410934630811074582017-03-11T08:26:00.001+01:002017-03-24T12:04:17.592+01:00The anatomy of the roseDear Readers,<br />
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we all know that people who sew have a strange urge to see the insides of the garments. Who am I to subdue it? So without further ado, here is the left side of the grey roses dress:<br />
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The lingerie guards...<br />
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<i> ...open</i></div>
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<i>...and closed</i></div>
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Finishing of the bodice </div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-lPpnh68H16V4BV8Z5If8VeHR_ED0b1a044GnBZo9ph8Wq_HubK1yXMvvjKIKhqDdIDqck6zZ-OLiQ9PNiBtUJxasyb7ogdkQrWGa7LofpKze_ME_huy3ojnU-xnEHrWxrfeIz1IlBXU/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-lPpnh68H16V4BV8Z5If8VeHR_ED0b1a044GnBZo9ph8Wq_HubK1yXMvvjKIKhqDdIDqck6zZ-OLiQ9PNiBtUJxasyb7ogdkQrWGa7LofpKze_ME_huy3ojnU-xnEHrWxrfeIz1IlBXU/s320/3.JPG" width="320" /></a></i></div>
<i><i> Satin bias binding covering the armhole, center back and waist seam allowances; cream grosgrain waist-stay; bodice cotton lining; lingerie guard; skirt lining; lapped zipper</i></i><i></i><br />
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<i> Hook and eye at the top of the lapped zipper (well, only a hook pictured here)<br />
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<i><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEWPTWAchW5H9XOGcWVpcaSs2QlwH-sUR2-W880_c-W8PI5l-dNEHXmIQrGyeOMGfFZTwgaASfheehTHVwQu5lAvNRa9paPpSkCmKgDhPQLvuiQDmK_hCApD3COKqgreqsVC6hlNXGXi4/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEWPTWAchW5H9XOGcWVpcaSs2QlwH-sUR2-W880_c-W8PI5l-dNEHXmIQrGyeOMGfFZTwgaASfheehTHVwQu5lAvNRa9paPpSkCmKgDhPQLvuiQDmK_hCApD3COKqgreqsVC6hlNXGXi4/s320/5.JPG" width="320" /></a></i></i></div>
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</i><i> More details of the waist seam allowance finishing; the waist stay, which fastens with 2 hooks & eyes</i><br />
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Pick stitching and hemming</div>
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To keep the contrast bands in place</i><br />
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<i> To sew in the zipper</i><br />
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Sleeve hem, slip stitched to the cotton lining<br />
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The hem - from the right side...<br />
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...and the left side. You can see that wherever it was possible I used the selvedge as the finish <br />
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In other places I used the blanket stitch to secure the skirt seam allowances; Both the main fabric hem and the lining hem were made using hand rolled hem<br />
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<i>The long seams of the lining were made with quite wide french seams</i></div>
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Thank you for reading! Have a wonderful weekend.</div>
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</i>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-8674139531297752392017-02-19T20:29:00.000+01:002017-02-19T21:02:03.606+01:00A bouquet of grey roses<br />
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Dear Readers,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRyp0jhOEDZQUwo8ceiM_IducEAAk4QN3jIJjvgCL7uzz5GPXtsUQs8-uztjMqoSr6gPT57IMum4tlniXoVKyp7LlBx_EzTZOu_vVRMa1ydlGWl2nqbmPAEy51Yv7QYJdmLL5KsHEJ9-0/s1600/r8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRyp0jhOEDZQUwo8ceiM_IducEAAk4QN3jIJjvgCL7uzz5GPXtsUQs8-uztjMqoSr6gPT57IMum4tlniXoVKyp7LlBx_EzTZOu_vVRMa1ydlGWl2nqbmPAEy51Yv7QYJdmLL5KsHEJ9-0/s400/r8.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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do you know this feeling when you've been making one thing for so long that you can't even look at it any more? ;-) I've been working on this dress on and off since December and few days ago I finally finished it. It's a good thing as it really has tired me out. But - off we go to the photos.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUqfJMaw6UXuQZqjxyXba8ZUPQIG7JtMHuPCDgJAPkZ-H7n9sjXWpjbFQ92p1YuVo50lxrKM_gJ5zb-uvwXVhxYgQAAUlvWNuDjnBN79hbAyb6dLhwugINJxluX7Pn3nhquzisn_115W8/s1600/rew.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUqfJMaw6UXuQZqjxyXba8ZUPQIG7JtMHuPCDgJAPkZ-H7n9sjXWpjbFQ92p1YuVo50lxrKM_gJ5zb-uvwXVhxYgQAAUlvWNuDjnBN79hbAyb6dLhwugINJxluX7Pn3nhquzisn_115W8/s200/rew.png" width="200" /></a> </div>
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I've used a modern pattern with a modern design, which could be easily modified for a vintage look; it's Butterick B5984. As I've suspected, quite a few changes were needed-the most important of which was to modify the princess seams of the front and side bodice panels to accommodate the bullet/cone shape bra. I didn't have to make the ususal FBA as the pattern had the A-B-C-D cup options, which was a nice change. The pattern was drafted to accommodate a modern, sphere-like, heavy bust shape and I had to change the seam curve below the bust from convex to a clearly pronounced concave one.<br />
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I've lengthened the skirt, shaved off a little bit of the <span class="st">décolletage and altered the sleeves' length as well. As for the above-mentioned d</span><span class="st">écolletage, I think it's the most beautiful element of the design. It's quite big and geometrical, but it doesn't expose the breasts at all and therefore does not look cheap, even with so much skin exposed. The extra emphasis on it made with contrasting band is also wonderful, making a portrait-perfect frame for the face.</span><br />
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<span class="st"> The main fabric was bought by my Husband in...IKEA. It's a heavy, quilting weight cotton and it works wonderful with the circle cut of the skirt. The belt and the contrasting bands are made from some heavy cotton twill. The bodice and sleeves are lined with ivory cotton batiste, having all of the seam allowances enclosed in a snow-white satin bias binding. </span><br />
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<i><span class="st">I'd like to thank my Husband once again for these photos and his patience to take them.</span></i></div>
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<span class="st"> The skirt has its own separate lining, made from the one-and-only superior lining from Truro Fabrics; it's attached only at the waist and the zipper opening. The zipper is hidden behind a placket, prick-stitched to make it almost invisible. The circle skirt and the separate circle lining are both finished with a hand-stitched rolled hem, which took more than enough time. ;) There are satin lingerie guards to help hide the bra straps and a cream grosgrain waist-stay. I think I'll make a whole new post for you just to show you the insides and finishing techniques used making the dress. Meanwhile-</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> a bow</i></div>
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<i> ...and a cat bonus</i><br />
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Thank you for reading!<i> </i></div>
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<span class="st"><br /></span>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-37214138128065063782017-01-06T15:34:00.000+01:002017-01-06T15:36:30.274+01:00Trying not to jade the jade Hello, dear Readers!<br />
The first post of 2017 is actually a past make. I had made this dress in October 2015, and since it was much too big for me now, as I've reduced, I decided to take it in. And as it's finally sunny here, me and my Husband could take some decent photos.<br />
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This was my first "big" project: first time with silk, first time with evening clothes, first time with two fabrics treated as one, finally-first time with overcasting by hand <i>all</i> the seam allowances.<br />
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<i>Big bow to my Husband for taking the photos and for helping (as always) with fitting and hemming!</i></div>
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The pattern is Vogue 5456 from 1961 and the main fabric is a silk dupioni in a shade of jade green from <a href="http://www.trurofabrics.com/" target="_blank">Truro Fabrics</a>.<br />
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It is fully backed with a medium-weight cotton canvas in dark green, for three reasons:<br />
-to give the dress more body and make it "fall heavier"<br />
-to reduce the crazy-wrinkling properties of dupioni (it crinkles from even looking at it)<br />
-to have something to hand sew to without marking the outside fabric.<br />
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As for the fit, I had to make regular alterations, such as FBA, but I
had to go much further with back adjustments than I usually do; I have a
short and narrow back and I ended up taking out 3,5(!) inches of back
width and 2,5 of back lenght in this pattern. <br />
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I lenghtened the dress by
an inch.The dress fastens with my favourite lapped zipper, finished off with a tiny snap and the neck.<br />
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The dress took about 100 hours to make, and most of the time was
spent basting the seams and hand-overcasting the seam allowances. On the
bright side, it was such a training that my hand sewing skills grew
significantly.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i> Some details</i></div>
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I love sewing with stable silk fabrics and I love wearing silk; it
keeps me warm when it's cold and cool when it's sizzling hot outside;
ever since that dress was made I was lost in a silk fever.<br />
Dupioni is a wonderful silk to start sewing with-it's stable, doesn't shift and takes the corrections gracefully.<br />
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Thank you for reading. Have a wonderful day! :-)<br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-1791595524220627062016-12-26T14:58:00.002+01:002016-12-26T15:04:24.553+01:0060(s) squares When I made the <a href="http://rvdzik.blogspot.com/2016/10/they-dont-make-it-anymore-way-they-used.html" target="_blank"> Simplicity 1609</a> for a gift, I liked it enough to give it a try as a nice, breezy summer dress (yay for sewing warm weather garments in mid-December...). I had some fresh, luminous white cotton sateen in a period-perfect abstract/square print (I have no idea what decade it comes from, as it was given to me. It may actually be from the 1960s).<br />
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So without further ado...<br />
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I made only minor adjustments:<br />
-I shortened and rounded the bust dart to make it lay better, as well as re-drafted the pattern to give it a bit more room around the chest<br />
- I made it longer, as over-the-knee lenght is terrible for my legs<br />
-I interfaced the hem, which was done using a separate facing; this helped to accentuate the A-line shape.<br />
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The dress closure is made with a lapped, hand stitched zip and a hook-and-eye.<br />
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<i> The biggest problem I and Husband-the-faithful-photographer had with
blogging this dress was in fact the weather-we have such a grey, dull
winter and it's always dark both in- and outside.</i><br />
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I pinked the seams (the cotton is very firm and dense) and I didn't line it, as it's supposed to be a way out of my constant summer dilemma, "how not to expose too much skin but be able to stay cool in a sizzling city". I think this pattern was made for cheerful, light dresses; it's so simple and unfussy.<br />
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I hope you're all getting some good rest during the holidays. Let it sew, let it sew, let is sew :-)<br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-60217316032110458382016-11-27T12:18:00.000+01:002016-11-27T12:45:21.087+01:00A jump(er) into a deep endHello, dear Readers.<br />
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I haven't really pampered you the last few weeks, have I... Unfortunately, I'm forced to let work consume a lot of my time, energy and good mood lately.<br />
But! I've refitted my graduation green silk dress (I'll post about it soon) and I've been convinced by the freezing November temperature that it'd be a good idea to sew something warm to wear around the house or/and in my informal time.<br />
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I had some soft, fluffy wool that I've bought few years ago. There was only 140cm (about 1,5 yards) of it, so the options for projects were limited. As those of you who follow me on Instagram already know, I decided to give Burda Vintage Mary jumper a try.<br />
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<i>My Husband has the greatest patience for taking the blog photos.</i></div>
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I had to squeeze the jumper into my piece of wool, so I shortened the sleeves, got creative about the facings (I've pieced them) and omitted the belt (I already had one in almost the same color as the one of my fabric). I also got to the conclusion that (not for the first time) Burda's sizing chart is crazy. Even though, according to Burda's chart, I'm a size 40, I've cut out the 34 size and it fits well, giving me some extra room to breathe. So a size 40 would probably fit both me and my Husband inside at the same time.<br />
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I like that the armhole is quite tight and high, which helps to look slimmer even though the jumper is trapeze-shaped. What makes Mary stand out is her collar-cut on the bias. It's easy to mould; to retain the draping quality I decided to omit the interfacing. I stabilized the edge of the neckline with a strip of cotton selvage.<br />
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Because I don't like the fuss of having many buttons to fasten at the back, I've sewn the opening shut except for the last 5cm; that is closed by two hidden snaps. I decorated the back with 3 big buttons, which are purely ornamental. To make them unobtrusive, I had covered them in the main fabric.<br />
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We're having an awful November here in Poland; except for a few sunny days it's painfully cold, dark and rainy. Pardon me for the grainy photos; my camera isn't exactly a thoroughbred. Fortunately here comes the December! All the (wintery) best to you, my dear Reader.</div>
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-65826086309705195682016-10-28T16:06:00.004+02:002016-10-28T23:58:08.723+02:00Une jupe plissée Hello, dear Readers. Those of you who are following me on Instagram may have seen that some time ago I started sewing a skirt with an interesting pleat arrangement. <br />
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The pattern is vintage Simplicity 2813 from 1958. I found it on Ebay and it came to me from the beautiful France. I love it so much I'm going to use it again and again; currently I'm thinking of navy silk shantung/dupioni or faille for the 2nd version. But back to my already sewn number 3:<br />
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<i> All photos by my patient Husband :)</i></div>
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I used the same fabric as with my pants (I wrote about them <a href="http://rvdzik.blogspot.com/2016/09/panting-for-pants.html" target="_blank">here</a>), a black wool blend. As with most of the vintage skirt patterns, once I've chosen the size the fit was perfect - so I made none alterations at all. Even the lenght was spot on.<br />
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<i> Hades the cat always wants to be the centre of attention. We're gonna forgive him, aren't we?</i></div>
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The construction of the skirt is straightforward; it has side seams and center back seam as well as eight darts, which are the main reason for a good fit between waist and hips. All of the bottom part is separate, to be completed on its own and sewn to the main skirt pieces after they had been constructed as well.<br />
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<i>A hat a day keeps the lady doctor sane :)</i></div>
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On the top of the junction there is an ornamental strip of fabric, finished off with a bow (to add some texture to the bow I used Berisfords' velvet trim-the best one I've seen, found on <a href="https://jaycotts.co.uk/collections/ribbon/patterns-ribbon-velvet" target="_blank">jaycotts</a> ).<br />
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To get the bottom part to stand away from the skirt and accentuate the flare, I made the upper skirt-lower skirt junction as a kind of buttressed seam. That proved to be a quick solution which worked perfectly. The zipper is a lapped one, sewn by hand with prick stitches.<br />
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The seam allowances were secured with zigzag stitch. The only struggle with this skirt was putting it the lining; I hate sewing with slippery fabrics. Even though this one was especially nice to touch and had a wonderful lustre (it's a 1980s rayon satin with a slightly irregular weave), it was a pain to sew with. I set it in all by hand to have at least some control over this slippery devil; I wanted to attach the satin as far as it was possible to keep the lining from riding up, so I joined it to the seam allowance of the skirt's bottom part, leaving the pleats to hang freely. Still, it's the only part of the skirt that I'm not happy with.<br />
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Now all is left to do is to think about the next project :-)<br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-90603656262045255172016-10-27T10:30:00.001+02:002016-10-27T10:54:00.372+02:00They don't make it anymore the way they used to in the 1960s Today's post is rather a shortie and stars <span class="st">Renée as the graceful model. </span>Some time ago (oh my, 2 years to be precise) one lady from my family had heard about the fact I'm sewing and she approached me with a request. In general I don't grant "would sew me this or that" favors, but there were 3 things that made the situation different that time:<br />
1) the lady had a fabric that we both loved<br />
2) she has waited patiently for me to sew the dress for 2 years without as much as a word of hurrying me up<br />
3) she wanted to have a dress like the ones worn in her youth, that is the late 60s. She sighed, looked at the clothes in her closet and said "They just don't make it anymore the way they used to in the 1960s, you know".<br />
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The trick was that she only had a 140cm (about 1,5 yards) of the fabric. I chose Simplicity 1609, a 60s repro, because if the iconic and clearly defined A-line of the dress and clever shaping with only 4 main pieces, but the pattern called for at least 170cm of fabric.<br />
That is why, my dear Readers, the print is awfully mismatched at the seams.<br />
Have mercy.<br />
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<i> My camera had a terrible problem with focus when photographing that print.</i></div>
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On the pattern cover model the dress is just above the knee, but since the future owner of this cotton frock looks her best in something just-below-the-knee, I lenghtened it by a few centimeters. I loved how the combination of bust darts and french darts shape the bodice. The lady I sewed for is big busted, so I had to modify the pattern a little bit. Aside from FBA it's a good thing to keep in mind that shortening and rounding the bust darts is a quick and simple way to flatter the D+ cups (I think I've read it somewhere in Threads). The fabric was pure fun to sew with-a dense, cheerfully printed seersucker cotton. Beause of the yardage shortage, I made the facings out of white cotton poplin from my stash. All the seam allowances are pinked and topstitched.<br />
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I changed the fastening- instead of a long back zipper I made a small opening at the neck with a tiny button and a loop made of a strip os bias-cut self-fabric with the stretch steamed out of it. There is no prolem to get in and out of the dress.<br />
As you can see in the photo above, I also made a small string-like belt to help with accentuating the waist.<br />
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<i> The back...</i></div>
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<i>...and the insides</i></div>
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Because I had so little fabric, I hemmed it with a help of white satin bias ribbon, hand stitched (as always) to avoid marking the fabric from the outside.<br />
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I won't model the dress as it's not my size, so I hope the mannequin photos will do for you. I'm off to pack the dress as a gift :-)<br />
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rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-69757842366144155822016-09-13T19:05:00.001+02:002016-09-13T19:35:05.156+02:00Panting for pantsa.k.a. quick note about something that's very rare in my wardrobe.<br />
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Recently, I started learning how to drive and - besides it being so much fun - it made me realise that my closet needs something which would be car-friendly. Since one needs to drive in flat shoes (ugh), separates like pencil/straight skirts are out as, when combined with above-mentioned flats, they tend to make me look like a duck. The line is awful and it doesn't work. Circle skirts do, but hey - my driving instructor lets out a quiet sigh when I try to fit a long wool circle skirt with a petticoat into a B-segment vehicle.<br />
Soooo, long story short, it was time for pants.<br />
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<i>Yep, the Husband was again patient enough to take these photos. <3</i></div>
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I rarely wear a pair in everyday life (work being an exeption), but I've always liked the look of slim 1950s pedal pushers and 1960s cigarette pants. Looking for an interesting pattern, I ended up with Burda 8/2010 108E - another rare choice for me, as I have a love-hate relationship with the magazine.<br />
The mentioned issue landed in my mailbox after I got inspired by Marchewkowa's amazing baby blue coat (which you can see <a href="http://www.marchewkowa.pl/2013/10/rekordzistka.html" target="_blank">here</a>). The Jackie Kennedy editorial had some nice lines and silhouettes, so I decided to give it a green light.<br />
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The pattern is very simple and - surprise, surprise - very well drafted. I needed almost no alterations at all (besides tightening the waist). These pants closely resemble their predecessors from the 60s. I chose a bit different fabric than what was suggested; mine is wool mix gabardine and doesn't have any stretch. I made the zipper the way I prefer (that is lapped) and I omitted the pockets, as I didn't want to destroy the slim line. The button is ornamental - pants fasten with two snaps. The belt is interfaced, as always, with heavy canvas (note: I'm wearing an additional leather belt on most on the photos to tighten the cinch).<br />
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The loveliest details are the fronts darts, which on they way become sewn-down front creases creating one, smooth line (yeah, a lot of "line" word in this note).<br />
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All in all, they do feel a bit too modern for my taste, but surprisingly I get lots of wear out of them.<br />
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P.S. In case you were wondering about the shirt I'm wearing, it's Simplicity 2154 that I made over a year ago with a cream-coloured cotton. :)rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-62114409898181373722016-08-20T10:31:00.001+02:002016-08-20T10:51:03.483+02:00Swing high, swing lowHello, dear Readers :-)<br />
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All the photos taken by my one-and-only Husband. You're the top, as Cole Porter sang!</div>
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Two months ago I was lucky enoguh to thrift over 8 yards of a beautiful dark navy corduroy. I've never been a fan of this fabric, as it brings back the memories of the children's clothes of the early 1990s, but there was something about this navy beauty that caught my eye. Maybe the colour, maybe the high pile that gives velvety feeling.<br />
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I managed to cut the fabric up efficiently enough to sew my Husband new trousers and to make myself something I've been longing to have - a 50s swing coat.<br />
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The pattern was Butterick 6288. Unfortunatelly, it arrived with two pieces missing - front and back of the sleeves. I was so irritated; it was stated in the auction that the pattern was complete. We've all been there, right? You get my frustration.<br />
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Ahh, the joy of a swing coat.</div>
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However, I liked the pattern so much I decided to draft the sleeves on my own, so few Threads articles later I had my sleeves' pattern pieces. To make the coat fit even more snugly at the shoulders (which is the only fitted part), I moved most of the sleeves' ease to the sides, instead of the top of the cap.<br />
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Cozy cozy</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWF1iufKosFeWfckUnTasMvgIcRUGmPCQn6OAfkx_sfF069LcGLmOGaMbR4P4qgWTFA02xKCqPMrsUwhVm_HEJJ3t25dYAL8kOlIvSAcviwVt-K9HWTAHB_Ues6DJT2ShHNLcdQ_TdESc/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWF1iufKosFeWfckUnTasMvgIcRUGmPCQn6OAfkx_sfF069LcGLmOGaMbR4P4qgWTFA02xKCqPMrsUwhVm_HEJJ3t25dYAL8kOlIvSAcviwVt-K9HWTAHB_Ues6DJT2ShHNLcdQ_TdESc/s320/3.JPG" width="320" /></a>The pattern is lovely; it gives this coat a full, sweeping line, which is all the swing coat should be about. I decided to make it mid-calf lenght and I finished it the way I like my clothes to be: with 7/8 sleeves turned back to be 3/4, with hidden closured and hand finishes. The collar and front facing were interfaced with canvas, pad-stitched to give them proper shape (you may have seen this step if you follow my instagram account).<br />
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The big button is only for esthetic purpose; the coat fastens with 7 snaps, each one covered with the lining fabric.<br />
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The lining itself has sleeves set in by hand and is hand sewn to the coat, but only along the collar and facings, with 'catch points' of thread along the side seams. The back and the botton of the lining has been blind hemmed and attached to the coat with french tacks, to let the main fabric drape freely.<br />
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I also made the sweat pads covered with lining - sweat is not a particulary glamourous subject, I know, but the pads will keep the coat from damage.<br />
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I hope you'll like it. Thank you for your feedback and all the positive energy you gave me by making me the winner of Pattern Review's 2016 Vintage Pattern Contest. Merci!<br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-17995270220409631202016-07-24T10:58:00.000+02:002016-07-24T10:58:07.510+02:00Vintage Pattern Contest Entry aka McCall 7077Hello my dear, patient readers :)<br />
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<br />Not long ago I fell in love with a pattern I saw on Ebay. I turned my purse inside out and looked for every penny, as I knew me and McCall 7077 were meant to be together. After its long journey from sunny California to (not so sunny) Poland, I could start planning my next project.<br />
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This McCall pattern is from the 1932; back when they were still McCall, short of " 's " . It's printed, which was a great innovation at the time and which fueled the company's commercial potential. I chose the view B.<br />
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I'd love to thank my dear Husband for taking all of these beautiful photos.</div>
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<br />I have sewn this dress with two crêpes, beige and black, as such contrasting colours highlight the cut. I made some slight changes, that is:<br />
1) I simplified the vestee and added a small bow,<br />
2) I omitted two of the belt's buttons,<br />
3) I made a minor FBA.<br />
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<br />The pattern is quite big, which was surprising; in general, vintage patterns run quite small, but this one had quite a lot of ease.<br />
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I had some problems with assembly, as the instructions are painfully skimpy, so all was left was a little bit of 'trial-and-error', but all in all, the dress turned out all right.<br />
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I hope to sew it again with wool c<span class="st">rêpe with a better drape, using softer contrasts (navy with dusty blue, hm?).</span><br />
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P.S. This dress is my entry in 2016 Vintage Pattern Contest on patternreview.com. Go and see all the wonderful project the contestants have sewn!<br />
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<br />rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-1830902052394526142016-06-19T17:54:00.004+02:002016-06-19T17:54:46.454+02:00The Almost blouseHere's the story of a blouse that has many "almosts" about it. It almost became my wedding outfit, it *almost* fits and I'm almost happy with it.<br />
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I had bought a remnant of this beautiful silk shantung from Joel&Sons Fabrics ( I can't recommend them enough - they have stunning fabrics and out-of-this-world customer service) around Christmas. It was destined to become a part of my wedding outfit, but I had yet to find a suitable pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPcg_5KbVV1LT1c8wav_euIvi8eL4Z6zF9rl5_29zleiwuJs2clKSA78M3pkGUZtSzpipnLeiPlGXYngkDc-ppJRztrTJ0dApRHUUVfHsZMQ7agNOtdtz05YQScjSOEW1z8aUsEUlToWQ/s1600/IMG_20160506_180847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPcg_5KbVV1LT1c8wav_euIvi8eL4Z6zF9rl5_29zleiwuJs2clKSA78M3pkGUZtSzpipnLeiPlGXYngkDc-ppJRztrTJ0dApRHUUVfHsZMQ7agNOtdtz05YQScjSOEW1z8aUsEUlToWQ/s320/IMG_20160506_180847.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAWg31duuZmA0L2wwrYtfXsJdeZTz3ovKhUN3lsP_a2KigKEdnKZhcURLUEVnQAkoGSkqKDvO5pI41g6jxGDuK39vXG06ZSPKTPXu-ZD7KoSgCjrIGDyneloKwEx_7y0o6vJAe1-KN_WA/s1600/8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAWg31duuZmA0L2wwrYtfXsJdeZTz3ovKhUN3lsP_a2KigKEdnKZhcURLUEVnQAkoGSkqKDvO5pI41g6jxGDuK39vXG06ZSPKTPXu-ZD7KoSgCjrIGDyneloKwEx_7y0o6vJAe1-KN_WA/s320/8.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I almost purred when I took this silk out of its packaging.</td></tr>
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Enter McCall's 3504. It has a beautiful draped bodice, so I decided to turn it into a blouse. I sewed up the muslin, made a few changes, everything seemed to be going smoothly.<br />
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I cut into the silk and into the cotton batiste for underlining. I hand-basted every piece of one fabric to another, then basted the seams together and again- everything was smooth and easy.<br />
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Then, after I machine stitched the main seems, something magical happened, but in a black magic sort of way; the fit was strange and bulky in one place, overfitted in next.<br />
I gently ripped the seams (not a good idea, as the silk marked easily from the threads). I re-stitched everything with slight changes to the back bodice lenght and the overall fit was better...but still not good. The sleeves suddenly messed everything up (even though they were fine when done in muslin) and I decided to abandon them altogether.<br />
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But I knew another seam unpicking might ruin the fabric, so I went with it and hand finished the insides.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZtHnpwQaBBsw4MHhHJmdyUQNtt3zvU6F9BY8PUVw7NxaIsW2VsxEysULGNJngL1soc7S_NUBk7R6MwbaznjZLKHYMEUmNGr3v7OxtaIP3WhvcNTyHBWmhoDzXd-ijNG-mJV1AzNksmHA/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZtHnpwQaBBsw4MHhHJmdyUQNtt3zvU6F9BY8PUVw7NxaIsW2VsxEysULGNJngL1soc7S_NUBk7R6MwbaznjZLKHYMEUmNGr3v7OxtaIP3WhvcNTyHBWmhoDzXd-ijNG-mJV1AzNksmHA/s320/5.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="st">Renée is a kind and patient model.<i><br /></i></span></td></tr>
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The hand finishes are my favourite part of this blouse. It is fully underlined, seam allowances are overcasted by hand and catch stitched to the cotton underlining. The side zipper is prick stitched.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The zipper</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neck insides</td></tr>
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The lovely back neck finish was also slip stitched by hand and gives the effect of an incorporated bow.<br />
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My so-so satisfaction led to the change of the blouse's destiny and now it awaits some dinner outing.<br />
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Oh well. At least it gave me the opportunity to practice!rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-37350506966731179192016-04-25T18:04:00.001+02:002016-04-25T18:04:03.014+02:00The star-crossed dressEven though it's all checked.<br />
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I started this dress in January. Firstly, I ordered the fabric from Truro Fabrics and due to super-busy time I had't calculated the yardage properly; it would be ok if it wasn't for the check to be matched. I decided to give it a try anyway and one day I cut out the pieces.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXCWd8TQ7p1SxJiQ2xqQd3O-54tdsuqzjwQCk1Ajx8FmClzdnL3Z7AVnecG9XF0sr-m1t5F2-zU9JpyoE3MNhmio30R2N2tpouuBG0QsYXW890NMYfOjdsyZJgKpFNmBy6voT7eSWDaQ/s1600/IMG_20160402_151102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXCWd8TQ7p1SxJiQ2xqQd3O-54tdsuqzjwQCk1Ajx8FmClzdnL3Z7AVnecG9XF0sr-m1t5F2-zU9JpyoE3MNhmio30R2N2tpouuBG0QsYXW890NMYfOjdsyZJgKpFNmBy6voT7eSWDaQ/s320/IMG_20160402_151102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then it was time for good, although sudden, change of flats. So I packed my cut pieces and took them along with other stuff. Unfortunately, as it usually happens, movings always have their victims and one of the pieces went missing. A small one, but it made me much more improvisational than I like to be.<br />
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And there was a temporary lack of funds so I decided to sew it up without an underlining and that was the biggest mistake. My cotton proved to be too flimsy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6sO3qgPFMeNQeDk6dByNTbRkNv_Rjl2HF6XPdEn7PaitkmzMA1rHENh0BmbZN3sY2iLmuuTG_pBuc5fZ2yEtpeHG4CBCteH4Dkbdxe8MCktcuAugM4zFHmYpOitoBB_JWjEngDyY2hU/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6sO3qgPFMeNQeDk6dByNTbRkNv_Rjl2HF6XPdEn7PaitkmzMA1rHENh0BmbZN3sY2iLmuuTG_pBuc5fZ2yEtpeHG4CBCteH4Dkbdxe8MCktcuAugM4zFHmYpOitoBB_JWjEngDyY2hU/s320/5.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Anyway, I felt that this poor dress deserved my attention and care, especially since it has been doomed from the start. So one piece after another, it has come together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg4FKqnjgSOnYQrRpSjL8a4OjwGoAsOART1PkhjWSZr9CqHKOfvgacsb7VQXCoi4DknIe-AWgsyv7muJktX2_ECeDTsI20-qEDLjvAkhWDXZdcidC1dMq1srlxJI_ImoUJUcBgX1HyQ7s/s1600/2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg4FKqnjgSOnYQrRpSjL8a4OjwGoAsOART1PkhjWSZr9CqHKOfvgacsb7VQXCoi4DknIe-AWgsyv7muJktX2_ECeDTsI20-qEDLjvAkhWDXZdcidC1dMq1srlxJI_ImoUJUcBgX1HyQ7s/s320/2.JPG" width="175" /></a></div>
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The design is Vogue 9456 from the 1958. It's a lovely pattern and so I made only one design change-I've added a detachable white band at the hem, so it would match the detachable collar & cuffs. It was actually my fianc<span class="st">é's suggestion-and a very good one, if I may add. It made the dress seem more put together and it introduced a pleasant-for-the-eye symmetry.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9DtDx866TgRDTSpxlsfTqQDMLM45FdSNa6I8JPuwhcCKnLKdXCokVgUls3bwfXMj0LKLym18rQ7eUYLtFlNOJ8KzNsnit5dBVVSmQO4w5cT_JbZG0ROK9phyx5gW51p3J4YNlecgXKxQ/s1600/4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9DtDx866TgRDTSpxlsfTqQDMLM45FdSNa6I8JPuwhcCKnLKdXCokVgUls3bwfXMj0LKLym18rQ7eUYLtFlNOJ8KzNsnit5dBVVSmQO4w5cT_JbZG0ROK9phyx5gW51p3J4YNlecgXKxQ/s320/4.JPG" width="179" /></a></div>
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<span class="st">When it comes to fitting alterations, I have:</span><br />
<span class="st">*shortened the back by 1,5 inch and tightened it by 2 inches (as you'll hopefully come to see, back measurements are my curse)</span><br />
<span class="st">*tightened the waist by shaving off an additional inch from front pieces</span><br />
<span class="st">*tightened the shirt, taking out an inch from each side of the side seam.</span><br />
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<span class="st">As you can clearly see, the pattern runs quite big - but fortunatelly it's not that hard to adjust. I was careful not to tighten the bodice too much, as it's supposed to be blouson.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgy8F2lvm4quaJhv80H_iA9QRZMnQjSMluCA0y_w7nw-1Ib-NxysPw-GBJokngoB3sD1xklVn9OatDTNGXwU2Gh8YM3lwoBSUfOPTohsLNqzLiU3mh1PdZlrDnK7hqqFAbpd7AqY8sqIk/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgy8F2lvm4quaJhv80H_iA9QRZMnQjSMluCA0y_w7nw-1Ib-NxysPw-GBJokngoB3sD1xklVn9OatDTNGXwU2Gh8YM3lwoBSUfOPTohsLNqzLiU3mh1PdZlrDnK7hqqFAbpd7AqY8sqIk/s320/3.JPG" width="169" /></a></div>
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<span class="st">I've matched as much plaid as I could, but the bodice's side seams and the sleeves' seams are mismatched and they bother me immensely. :]</span><br />
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<span class="st"> </span><span class="st"><i>Renée is pretty dapper with her collar.</i></span></div>
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<span class="st">As I've mentioned, the whites-that is: collar, cuffs and hem band- are detachable. I used beautiful, crisp ivory cotton poplin, again from Truro. The cuffs are positioned with snaps, but both the collar and the hem band are slipstitched-which is what the pattern instructions advised.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrER39riLZ1JyXns8_SoW2oin7BvXRpW0tzvUL_vot6n3dsJJmoqYck_4haDMokqz9sFIXQokyYkWItj0Htc4pFWTBg-Rnabdm1GPQjwLhwKTaVBIPhpJtl0vkFG-kMRP4SiYXG3lvS7k/s1600/photobomb.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrER39riLZ1JyXns8_SoW2oin7BvXRpW0tzvUL_vot6n3dsJJmoqYck_4haDMokqz9sFIXQokyYkWItj0Htc4pFWTBg-Rnabdm1GPQjwLhwKTaVBIPhpJtl0vkFG-kMRP4SiYXG3lvS7k/s320/photobomb.JPG" width="299" /></a></div>
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<span class="st"><i> Oh, meet Hades the Cat. The crowned photobomber.</i></span></div>
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<span class="st">Will I use this pattern again? Oh yes, I will. But I'll make sure to use sturdier fabric, one that will hold the big, detachable collar with success. Altogether I'm happy to have sewn this dress, as it gave me my first opportunity at matching such a bold pattern and it was also my very first attempt at making blouson bodice... Finally, I got a chance to make a dress with crisp, easy-to-wash, detachable cuffs/collar - and I've wanted one ever since I can remember. :) </span>rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5249285043537112695.post-86208477201574408602016-04-25T07:56:00.000+02:002016-04-25T08:15:06.339+02:00First things firstGood morning!<br />
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Writing the first post seems kind of awkward and to me I'm quick to notice my essay skills have gone rusty, but nevertheless I hope to bring you, dear Readers, a bit of entertainment. I've been tossing around the idea of a sewing blog for quite some time, but aside from lack of time there was one more thing to stop me-I'm rather an introvert. But I have taken so much from already existing blogs, all the inspiration and invaluable advice, so I feel it's time to give something back. So welcome to rvdzik. :)rvdzikhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02374916393161718680noreply@blogger.com0